From Karachi to Kozhikode, exploring the many shades of halwa; Orange, white, and back Food Wine News

Over two decades in Delhi, I understand Gajar ka halwa It is one of the most popular and widely prepared sweets in all economic strata of North Indian households. Its three main ingredients—grated carrots, milk, and sugar—are readily available and budget-friendly, making it the perfect warming dessert to help you cope with Delhi’s harsh winters.

Who do we Dutch have to thank for this wonder? In the 17th century, Dutch farmers developed the orange carrot as a tribute to William of Orange. These carrots soon found their way to Punjab via Afghanistan, and the rest, they say, is history. The woman cooked Gajar ka halwa For hours on the coal stove, the grated carrots were cooked to half the milk while waiting for them to cook. Now to save time, people use milk solids found in sweet shops instead of milk.

While scripting a food show on exotic foods of India, I discovered oranges Gajar ka halwa Not the only variety available. Old Delhi’s Sheeren Bhawan, a 100-year-old shop, offers a subtle white variety made from carrots grown in Ghaziabad. It is only available between mid-December and mid-February. In this, the grated white carrot keeps its shape, does not shrink, and is less sweet, which gives the pudding a slightly more developed taste.

Lucknow, the city of great food, serves another savory, less sweet version Black Carrot Halwa. Black carrots are plentiful in Delhi markets, but this sweet is unique to Lucknow. Black carrots have a less grainy, earthy flavor that lends itself well to desserts. Grated carrots are cooked in milk––no shortcuts here––sugar and ghee to make a version that will appeal to anyone who doesn’t want a dark, almost deep purple, high in sugar and a little too much flavor.

How did Halwa reach India?

PuddingA trip to India is as fascinating as its diversity. The word Halwa is derived from the Arabic word hulw Meaning sweet. Historians suggest that it came from trade routes, with ports like Karachi and Kozhikode developing their own distinct versions. Karachi Halwa, a chewy, fudge-like dessert, became a bone of contention after Partition. In some regions it was named Bombay Halwa, in Delhi, it remains Karachi Halwa, and is celebrated for its long shelf life.

The roots of Pudding can be traced back to an Arabic text of the 13th century Kitab al-TabikhListing eight editions. Indian texts including the Ain-i-Akbari document its preparation in Emperor Akbar’s vegetarian diet, while medieval cookbooks such as the Nimatnama also mention it. Some claim it dates back to Suleiman the Magnificent in the Ottoman Empire – who ruled from 1520 to 1566 – and whose palace kitchen had a dedicated dessert section, “Helwahne” or “The Dessert and Candy Room”. The principles are similar to the varieties of halwa available in India. And lean towards the theory that Halwa made its way to our shores thanks to the Arabs – made more believable by using saffron and dried fruit as flavoring agents.

Gajar ka halwa It is one of the most popular and widely prepared sweets in all economic strata of North Indian households. (Photo: Canva Pro)

in Illustrated Foods of IndiaFood historian Katie Achaya writes: “In India, it (halwa) refers to a soft firm dessert made from a variety of ingredients: wheat flour, wheat gram, vermicelli, Bengal flour, fruits like bananas and dates, nuts like almonds, and vegetables. Pumpkin and Dates.” But this definition does not include all the halwas that one can find in India. Far from using vegetables in the dessert, which is actually not uncommon in India, there are some non-vegetarian variants e.g. gosht (sheep) Puddingand anda (egg) what pudding which are worth mentioning. Goshta HalwaOriginating in Rampur, Uttar Pradesh, it is a rich delicacy made of beef meat slowly cooked with sugar, milk and ghee. and pudding Mix eggs, ghee, sugar and saffron for a custardy treat.

Regional differences abound across India. Most Indian halwas are based on grains, viz semolina Pudding or flour Pudding. In Gujarat, you find mohanlal, a halwa made from besan (chickpea flour). Pudding Often served during celebrations or rituals. The Karah Prasad of the Sikh community, wheat PuddingOffered at baptisms, marriages and cremations. Jauji of Lucknow PuddingMade with almonds, milk and saffron, it is believed to boost immunity. In old Karnataka, a semolina Pudding was called shali-annaAlso known as Keshari Snan, wheat semolina is lightly fried in ghee before milk and sugar are added.

Whatever its origins, it would be fair to say that halwa is one of the most versatile of Indian sweets that has a grace and flavor unique to every region where it can be found. Maybe it’s actually the one dessert that binds Indian cooks. together with

Next week, in the spirit of Christmas, I’ll be writing about Christmas cakes, Muslim bakers, Hindu customers and a very Christian recipe!

Why should you buy our membership?

You want to be the smartest in the room.

You want access to our award-winning journalism.

You don’t want to be confused and misinformed.

Choose your subscription package

Leave a Comment