There was a time when young people were looking for “bright” skin, a euphemism for “gooey” skin, says Dr Sonali Kohli, senior dermatologist at Sir HN Reliance Foundation Hospital in Mumbai. But for the first time in years, she has seen a shift in perception as everyone is now taking care of their skin the way they take care of their heart, liver or kidneys. “After covid, people are looking at the skin through a new lens, not as a cosmetic prop but as the largest part of the human body. In the last year, every one of my patients has asked me not about the creams they use but whether they contain ceramides or peptides. What the skin needs There is an awareness about it that is backed by science,” she says.
Skin is not only “healthy-looking” but also “healthy-functioning.” This understanding of skin health has evolved with the desire to deal with chronic covid, one of the most stubborn symptoms of itchy and dry skin. With the Korean beauty industry using ceramides and peptides as a sales pitch, and social media users talking about their non-invasive and convenient nature that plumps up skin within days of use, a new wave of awareness is rising among age groups. “They provide complete nutrition, are safe for daily use and are proven as reliable skin-protecting compounds. More than a cosmetic fad, they have given long-term clinical solutions to skin problems,” says Dr Kohli.
However, there have been two major changes. One is the discovery of longevity that is fueling the pursuit of the science of agelessness. Another is increasing pollution, which has changed the perception that skin allergies are only caused by food. Pollutants can penetrate the skin and weaken its barrier function, break down skin proteins such as collagen and elastin fibers, and limit vitamin D production by blocking UV-B rays from the sun. So skin has assumed a greater role than aesthetics.
What are ceramides and peptides?
Ceramides are lipids or fatty acids that comprise about 50 percent of the outer layer of skin. They help strengthen the skin’s protective barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting it during exposure to harmful environments. While the body naturally produces ceramides, their levels decrease with age or exposure to pollutants, making the skin vulnerable to toxins. “Imagine a brick and mortar house. Now each brick is a skin cell and the mortar that holds it together is ceramide. When that is removed, you should re-plaster the outer barrier with products containing ceramide. They fill the gaps between skin cells to form this outer layer, keeping moisture in and irritation out,” says dermatologist Dr Inderpreet Kaur Mahendra, Apollo Clinic. “Ceramides have been in medicated creams for decades. However, they are being used on a large scale now. In research studies, topical ceramide moisturizers applied to the skin’s surface increased hydration within 24 hours of use,” says Dr. Kohli.
Peptides are amino acids, the building blocks of protein, and improve the skin’s ability to produce collagen and elastin, the protein that gives skin its elasticity, firmness and texture. In short, anti-aging. Peptides repair the skin and can reduce inflammation, scarring and acne. “In fact, copper peptides are poised to be the rage next year because they easily remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and encourage the growth of new, healthy tissue. Clinical studies of copper peptides show promising results in skin rejuvenation,” Dr. Ajita Bagai Kakkar, Dermatology, Laser & Esthetic Medicines, Max Multi Specialty Hospital, Panchsheel Park, Delhi says.
In fact, peptides have been found to be so effective that she recommends incorporating them into skincare routines starting in the 20s. “This is how you prevent skin aging. Peptides are smaller and more fragmented than proteins, which makes them easier for the body to absorb. So they work as both skin and hair care serums and masks,” she adds.
Are they natural or lab-made?
Ceramides and peptides can be both natural and synthetic. Both can be extracted from plant sources such as soy, wheat germ, sweet potatoes, beans and corn. Synthetic ingredients are lab-engineered to mimic the structure and function of natural ceramides. Dermatologist, Trichologist and Cosmetologist Dr. Kokilaben Hospital in Mumbai. “Synthetic creams are cheaper than natural creams, where the extraction process is complicated,” says Neetu.
How to use ceramides and peptides
However, is your cream giving you the protection you need? Dr. Kohli emphasizes that it is not only important to go gaga over ceramide creams but also to check its composition. “Ceramides are complex lipid molecules. Some are more absorbable, some less. So to get the best results, it’s important to choose their right concentration, see how they apply to your skin condition and how well they work with other components,” said Dr. Kohli. give advice For example, if you’re addressing specific issues related to aging or skin blemishes, choose products that contain ceramides along with other ingredients known to target those issues. “For anti-aging, the formula should include ceramides, peptides or retinoids (vitamin A). For irritated or inflamed skin, creams should combine ceramides with soothing ingredients such as niacinamide (a form of vitamin B) or aloe vera, which is anti-inflammatory,” she adds.
For a long time, people have used retinol, a form of vitamin A and vitamin C, to repair their skin. But on their own, they can be dehydrating. “Combined with ceramides, vitamins C, E and other antioxidants can boost the skin’s defenses and keep the previous skin barrier up,” says Dr Kakkar.
Dr. Kohli suggests an easy way to check ceramide concentration. “It should be present in the first four or five fatty acids listed on the product label in descending order,” she says. “The ideal concentration should be 3:1:1 or a ratio of three parts ceramide and cholesterol and fatty acids each. They also come with suffixes like Ceramide EOP, AP, NP, EOS, each of which has a specific function and concentration, some more hydrating, others are more exfoliating,” adds Dr Neetu.
Peptides, like ceramides, work well with other ingredients, it’s antioxidants, vitamin C, niacinamide or hyaluronic acid, substances made of molecules that absorb moisture like a sponge. “Peptides don’t work well with acidic ingredients. Collagen peptides are ideal for skin elasticity and hydration, so those concerned about wrinkles should opt for it. But if it’s anti-aging, the user should use peptides like Matrixyl and Argireline that prevent the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.” ,” says Dr. Kakkar. For concentration, he starts with “palmitoyl” or the first five items She suggests looking on the label for words ending in “peptide.”
Who can use it?
Considering the fact that influencers on social media platforms like Instagram recommend skin creams as the magic pill you need to take in an appearance-conscious society, Dr Kakkad is worried about young people using them. “I have seen 12- to 13-year-olds fighting for the cream. For teenagers until their 20s, sunscreen and moisturizers do their job. They don’t need booster creams,” says Dr Kakkad. Although these creams are safe for adults, she says people have different allergies and sensitivities and should therefore patch test. “Apply the cream to a specific area for a week. Discontinue use if you notice any irritation or pain. Always consult a board-certified dermatologist for the correct formulation of ceramides and peptides that is appropriate for your condition,” she adds. “Also, don’t forget lifestyle, diet and exercise,” says Dr Inderpreet.
Why should you buy our membership?
You want to be the smartest in the room.
You want access to our award-winning journalism.
You don’t want to be confused and misinformed.
Choose your subscription package